The UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) has urged the government to overhaul public procurement rules. In a formal submission to the House of Lords Committee, the trade body argued that current spending policies actively damage domestic manufacturing. Although the inquiry focuses on defence and technical textiles, UKFT warns that these procurement barriers affect advanced manufacturing across all sectors.
Ultimately, the association aims to secure key policy changes. These reforms would benefit the wider fashion and textile industry while strengthening other British manufacturing sectors.
The True Cost of “Cheap” Procurement
Currently, Treasury spending rules place too much emphasis on the lowest upfront cost. Consequently, public buyers frequently overlook the broader benefits of manufacturing at home. UKFT highlights several crucial advantages of choosing domestic suppliers:
- Resilience: Local supply chains protect the nation from international disruptions and market volatility.
- Innovation: Strong domestic contracts encourage companies to invest in research and development.
- Economic Boost: Buying British supports skilled employment, generates tax revenues, and delivers long-term value to the economy.
Because of the current system, UK manufacturers are frequently shut out of government contracts. This exclusion occurs even when local firms offer high-quality, internationally competitive products. Interestingly, UK companies successfully supply technical and defence textiles to many NATO partners. Despite this global success, they regularly struggle to win equivalent contracts at home.
Therefore, UKFT believes procurement must become a strategic tool. It should support national resilience, industrial capability, and economic growth rather than focusing solely on short-term unit price.
A Blueprint for Public Purchasing
To resolve these issues, UKFT has proposed a series of targeted reforms to the government:
- Update Treasury Guidance: The government must reform its definition of “value for money” to include social and economic benefits.
- Recognise Strategic Sectors: Public buyers must give greater weight to critical domestic manufacturing capabilities.
- Increase Transparency: The bidding process requires clearer visibility to help local firms compete fairly.
- Strengthen Engagement: The government must build closer communication channels with industry leaders.
Although these proposals target defence contracts initially, UKFT is using this work to drive broader change. The trade body is collaborating with industry partners, including the CBI, to create a more supportive environment for UK manufacturing. Resolving these common barriers will strengthen UK supply chains, encourage investment, and create skilled jobs across the country.
Preparing for Political Change
With a new Prime Minister preparing to take office, UKFT is intensifying its political lobbying. The group will continue to work with Ministers, Parliament, and industry partners to ensure future policies better support British manufacturing.
UKFT CEO Adam Mansell commented: “UKFT continues to believe that UK manufactured textiles and garments have an important future. Our campaign to change the rules on public procurement is an important step towards creating better awareness in Government of the many benefits of buying British, alongside our other campaigns to reduce the cost of energy in UK manufacturing and supporting education and training. These are issues we have been campaigning for and we intend to make the new Prime Minister aware of the need for urgent change and the benefits of a stronger UK fashion and textile industry.”
